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Broth of the Day - Cook's Secret

A reduction of what was a boring looking concoction simmering at the back of the stove is the magic touch to most European classics. (info)

 

"Indeed, stock is everything in cooking...without it nothing can be done."

- Auguste Escoffier 

  (Scroll further down for another photo example.)

Great beginnings...a bundle of leek tops and celery, onions...

Say 'broth' and visions of hours over the kettle comes to mind.  And this may be so for bone based broths or those made of soup meat, but great broths are also quickly made and are economical. 

 

What is the difference between stock and broth?  Stock is vegetable based only and broth is made from meat of some sort with or without vegetables.  Fish broth is referred to by both names.  Professional stocks or broths follow classic formulas.

 

It is lamentable that in our modern lifestyle, folk wisdom and good traditional cooking methods have faded.  It is beyond the scope of this article to go too far into the  nutritional value or cultural history.  But it is worth mentioning here that cooking with broths/stocks as the base for exquisite culinary wonders is not only typical of Asian cooking, but certainly of European cooking.  And now you know why in so many of my recipes you will find stock or broth listed in the ingredients.

 

Why do experienced cooks value broths?  Because most hardy soups, great sauces, or that special 'something' that makes vegetables so tasty or that pasta ummmm! started with a little broth instead of water.  A reduction of what was a boring looking concoction simmering at the back of the stove is the magic touch to most European classics.

 

"Indeed, stock is everything in cooking...without it nothing can be done."

- Auguste Escoffier 

 

A good vegetable soup starts off with water.  A great one starts off with vegetable stock (after straining out the first addition of vegetables).  A little vegetable stock instead of water brings out the best in sautéed vegetables, or is the cooking liquid for braising meats (or other vegetables such as cabbage wedges). It supplies a little liquid for fish, seafood or poultry, adding more nutritional value at the same time as well as a little boost to flavour.

 

A stock or broth may loose it's vitamins through long cooking, however minerals remain intact.  And when this is reduced further for a consommé or sauce, it packs a nutritional punch. A stock or broth is about flavour and nutrients beyond the vitamin fixation society has today.  It serves as a base and supplies equally important minerals.  The vitamins come from more vegetables (or meat) added to this nutritional base and are cooked just long enough to finish them.

 

Vegetable stocks are the quickest to make while the rest of the meal is cooking and supplies a great base for a nutritious first course or saved for later or the next day - all from mostly trimmings from vegetables you may be using.  Broths also aid digestion.  Let (almost) nothing go to waste!

 

Here are a few tips on what to save for a freezer bag or a quick broth:

  • When cutting onions, save the root end and that bit of onion.  Save a little of the brown skin - it adds a little colour to the broth.

  • Leeks - save the tough, dark green tops.  They give great flavour.  Just cut them lengthways and rinse out any dirt, cut them in 'batons' (hand length) and tie them with culinary string for easily fishing out of the pot.

  • If you use organic vegetables, save those scrubbed clean potato peels.

  • Outer leaves of cabbage, too tough to eat even cooked belong in the stock pot.

  • Stems of parsley or wilted celery even lettuce.

  • Less than pristine bits of vegetables - as long as they are not spoiled - do fine in the pot.

  • Less than perfect or overripe tomatoes.

  • Shells of fresh pea pods.

  • Tops and ends of green beans.

  • A little of whatever vegetable you are using that day - a bit of potato, a little carrot, spinach, chard.

  • For a quick broth, add a bit of the meat you are using for your meal into the vegetable stock.  If using chicken or turkey breast, use that little flap of meat that is the result of trimming the meat away from the breast bone...or a bit off the end of a roast or trim a little off a steak.

  • Leftover bit of tomato paste or similar.

  • A bay leaf or two.

  • Try to always have a celeriac (celeric aka. celery root) on hand when in season.  Great flavour and all you need is a small wedge of it.

Think you don't have time?  You do, really.  Get a pot of magic simmering while you do something else.  In no time, you've a supply for later, tomorrow or for freezing in half litre (2 cups) containers.  I sometimes reduce down leftover stock and freeze in ice cube trays which I later store in plastic bags.  Great for adding a little magic to a sauce.

 

What doesn't do well in the stock pot:

  • Aubergine or artichoke - too bitter.

  • Use only a little of cabbage core or broccoli and cauliflower stems.  Too much will dominate the stock.

  • Peelings and trimmings from carrots.  Unfortunately, unless organic, these WILL have traces of pesticide and heavy chemical fertilizing which is why today they must be peeled and not scraped as our mother's did.  Carrot peel is rather bitter anyway!

What else to save for stocks that require longer cooking:

  • Bones, fresh or cooked.  Best, of course from organic sources.

  • Leftover bones from the roast chicken or turkey or roast.

  • For a seafood stock, shrimp or prawn peels, tails and heads.  Lobster shells, head and claws after that special meal.

  • Egg shells that have been cleaned well add natural, useable calcium.

  • A splash of vinegar.  This will draw out even more minerals, especially calcium from bones and egg shells.

What I typically do - especially in the Autumn and Winter months - is to set a medium pot of water going, enough to make a soup for my husband and I, with a little left over - about 1-1/3 litre or more.  While I prepare the meal, I add what I trim away into the pot from the vegetables, and of course a little garlic.  The key is a high vegetable to water ratio.  If I don't have enough that day, I pull out (or break off) what I need from a freezer bag I have for this purpose.  If there is liquid left from steaming vegetables, in it goes too as well as a bay leaf and perhaps a little thyme or other herb.  It takes only minutes and is done as I prepare the meal.

 

When the rest of the meal is nearly finished, I strain out the vegetables and discard.  Now I may add a little diced or julienne vegetables or left over pasta and I adjust for taste with seasonings, herbs or a splash or wine or sherry.  These only need a few moments more to be done. 

 

There are other times when I poach a chicken breast in the simmering vegetable soup just long enough to simmer it juicily done and not longer.  The first course is the soup, the second the poached chicken breast with a light, quick sauce of thickened broth from the soup and served with potatoes (possibly also done in the soup, but lifted out and reserved) and another vegetable to accompany.  All rather quick, and very nutritious.

 

Sometimes a serious addition of chopped herb such as parsley or chervil and perhaps a beaten egg swirled into the simmering water is all needed to finish off a great first course.  In Italian cooking, grated parmesan is often the finishing touch.

 

Always add a few drops of healthy oil such as olive oil or a bit of butter just before serving.  At times, a little tomato paste, a splash of soya sauce, wine or miso is all that is needed for a flavour adjustment.

 

Or the leftover vegetables from the day before may be blended in - with or without a little cream or milk - for a thicker soup.  Sometimes it's the only way I can be certain my husband eats enough vegetables!

 

On those days where I don't plan a soup as a first course, I save the trimmings for later. Most liquids from cooking or left over browned scrapings from the pan I cooked meat in, I loosen away with a little broth, water or wine and save in a small jar.  I will surely use it for something the next day!

 

Do I ever use 'store bought' broths?  Yes, I usually have an emergency container of 100% natural broth - no conservative or chemicals - on hand of something - vegetable, chicken or whatever.  After all, I am in a country where 'un poco de caldo' in the kitchen is the norm!  And in a pinch, I do use a little cube type concentrated stock - however it is from an organic company, contains no MSG, conservatives or artificials.  I either bring it from Germany or send for it.

 

Like asking a woman what few things would she want if stranded on an island, ask a cook what s/he could not do without and the answer would surely be:  a sharp knife, a good stock and the other magic touch - a good wine.

 

For the cook or the sauce?  ;>D

 

  Chard, Tomato and Chicken Soup - all from trimmings and a bit of chicken breast.


 

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Patricia Conant,  columnist and food writer

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