My first encounter with quiche was in the Pfalz, Germany - only it was called 'Zwiebelkuchen' or Onion Tart.  It was late, soggy, cold autumn and I followed my nose to the local cafe.  It was love at first bite.  Accompanied with a good Pfälzer wine, it was heaven and earth.  Served slightly warm, the earthy, smoky flavour of the Speck (smoked pork belly) and the  sweetness of the onion was perfect harmony with the heavenly, slightly fruity-tart bouquet of the cool white wine.  Unforgettable - it was mid '70's.  Anywhere in Germany, Autumn/Winter means 'Zwiebelkuchen' time in some local version. For some regions, it is 'Speckkuchen' that is more popular which uses smoked pork belly (similar to bacon) and no onion.

In the Lorraine region of France, in Metz - I tasted the world famous 'Quiche Lorraine' and found 'Lothringer Speckkuchen' - which is what it is called in Germany.  For all practical purposes, they are the same, except for the addition of the Gruyère cheese in the quiche - which is a modern addition, by the way.  Travel to the Alsace region just next door, and you will find 'Quiche Alsacienne' - no cheese, lots of onion, very 'Zwiebelkuchen' and very Germanic.  But this similarity is not surprising with a brief brush-up in local history.

Origins

The medieval town 'Lothair' was ruled and named by the German Emperor Lothair until centuries later the French renamed it 'Lorraine'.  The Alsace-Lorraine regions were under Germanic rule from the 4th to the 17th century when it became French, reconquered by Germany in 1807, regained by France in 1919, and annexed by Germany from 1940-1944 when it was liberated by the allies.  A German dialect is spoken in both these regions, much to the embarrassment of the French.  Both region's fine culinary style is more Germanic than not.  What is the original name of the Quiche Lorraine?  Lothringer Speckkuchen.

Originally, the Zwiebelkuchen/quiche was baked on a bread dough base, where in some regions far to the south-west such as the Bodensee, it is still made to this day.  In Grandmother's time on bread baking day, a little dough was often saved to make the 'Zwiebelkuchen'.  Today a pastry dough or even puff pastry is used, the later being very frowned upon by traditionists.  

After World War II, the Anglophones discovered the Zwiebelkuchen/quiche where it was treated as a tasty exotic by the English and embraced as Continental culinary chic by the Americans.  And like the Alsace-Lorraine regions flipping between German and French rule, quiche came in and out of trend until the late 80's at least as far as the Anglos are concerned.  After that I lost track of its popularity.  However, over here it's always in.

Today the quiche has evolved into a multi-faceted dish far beyond its true origins and intent.  And what do Germans call quiche?  Quiche.  If it is not 'Zwiebel- or Speckkuchen', then it is quiche.  

Anglophonic Nonsense

Funny.  The only time I hear comments like 'real men don't eat quiche' - it is always from a native Anglophone (English speaker).  I wonder why that is.  Is it because the mostly vegetarian ingredients  held together with an egg and cream mixture then baked in a pastry shell seems less than manly?  Somehow I don't think sweet, baked custard  pies receive the same distain.    On the other hand, 'real men don't eat salads/rabbit food/vegetables/drink water' is a common excuse too amongst the nervous uninformed.  Or is it the name? Whatever it is, fellows, don't feel threatened.  Just say you don't like it.  No silly blurbs, please.  You'll feel more secure in the minority and there will be more for the rest of us!

Tips - calories, bases, baking, ingredients, filling, wine

For everyone else, here are a few helpful tips to inspire your next quiche creation.  On the Recipe Collection, you will find quiche recipes and recipes for varying the base too!

Lowering fat:  oh, yes!  The quiche and all its versions can be very fattening.  Believe it, there is no such thing as a low fat quiche made with real ingredients (not plastic imitation this or that)...just a lower fat one.  Traditionally, the Zwiebel-, Speckkuchen/quiche were not the very thick versions often seen today, but the width of two perhaps three fingers.  Reduce fat by replacing half of the cream or crème fraîche in the recipe with quark, cottage cheese rubbed through a sieve or similar fresh cheese.  These are lower in fat than the cream cheeses.  Use a thinner crust made with the minimum of fat or have a look at the quiche base alternatives at the Recipe Collection.  By the way, there is no such thing as a crustless quiche.  Then it becomes a baked savoury custard.  Quiches always have some sort of crust.  

Modern versions even use rice, a tasty alternative for many fillings, though traditionalists wouldn't agree.  And, don't forget you can enjoy a tasty quiche made with the best cream and great filling...just take a smaller slice.  Or make a smaller quiche so you won't be too tempted to eat more.  Freeze the rest.  Don't worry about HOW many calories are in a quiche, just remember it will probably be about 1/4 to 1/2 of an average woman's daily caloric allowance.  If you indulge,  just eat light the next day.  Save calories. Quiche with friends!

Baking/casing:  bake the casing (base) first in a preheated oven for about 12-15 minutes to avoid a soggy crust.  If you like, paint it lightly with beaten egg white which will seal it.

Baking/filling:  the egg/cream mixture is just as important as the rest of the aromatic, flavourful ingredients.  It should be just firm in the middle and golden brown on the surface. It is finished when a toothpick or knife inserted in the middle comes out clean. Bake no higher than 190°C  (375°F) to prevent it from cracking, drying out on the surface or separating.  A quiche should be moist, never dry.  The ratio of flavour intensive ingredients such as ham, smoked ham and bacon, smoked salmon should be in relationship to the character of the quiche recipe.  Milder ingredients can be used in greater amounts.  Always allow a quiche to rest 5-10 minutes before cutting or removing from the pan. 

Ingredients:  practically whatever your heart desires - but with consideration for how flavours will react together.  As a general suggestion, unless making a mixed vegetable quiche, try to stay within 3 ingredients, plus (or not) cheese.  A serious mixed cheese quiche doesn't need other ingredients but may benefit from one savoury addition, such as bacon or ham or herbs.  A mixed vegetable quiche with ham, salmon, mushrooms, cheese and curry may solve what to do with left overs, but is a beginners mistake.  

Have all vegetables sliced or cut into even pieces and either briefly steam then plunge in cold water, or sauté until half done OR have them so finely minced that the cooking time for the quiche will be adequate to finish the ingredients.  A tablespoon of Parmesan cheese makes a lovely seasoning to most quiches.  For a cheese quiche, either use one kind or a blend of mild cheeses OR use only one dominant cheese such as blue cheese or Emmentaler in moderate amounts and mix with a bland cheese such as quark or other fresh or cottage cheese.  Use enough strong cheese to delight but not to bite.  Generally cheese is not used with fish or other seafood.

Suggestions:  (green) asparagus, wild asparagus and smoked salmon, broccoli and cauliflower with cured ham. Florintine (spinach) with garlic and feta cheese, try this as a covered quiche using puff pastry.  Leek and cheese or leek, bacon and caraway or fennel seeds.  A Spring Quiche of minced spring herbs, Lemon Balm, chives, parsely, wild garlic (or garlic cloves), a little lemon juice or a Summer Quiche with slices of zucchini, aubergine (eggplant), colourful bits of peppers...a Mediterranean one with tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, mint, black olives, feta cheese...a spicy one using slices of sharp sausage...and whatever else inspires you.  Just be sure to fry the bacon or pork belly bits until most of the fat is rendered and they are crispy.  Unless otherwise suggested, ingredients are arranged on the base and the egg mass poured over.

General egg mass suggestions:  for a 25 diameter normal quiche pan, at least 2 eggs plus 1 yolk for 250ml. milk and half again (125 ml.) of heavy cream or crème fraîche and 100-200 gr. of cheese if using, or about 1 to 2 good handfuls.  Use less if you prefer or reserve a little to garnish the top.  You can also lay slices of cheese over the ingredients instead of using grated before pouring over the mass. The more eggs the richer and firmer the egg mass will be.  With 4 eggs you can reduce the liquid proportionately.  Very often a good grating of nutmeg and white pepper is used and enhances the flavours.  

The more ingredients, the less egg mass will be needed to bind and fill the base.  A spinach quiche is mostly spinach, some cheese and enough egg mass to bind it.  A quiche of fresh finely minced herbs (a few handfuls) will need about 650 to 700 ml. milk or quark/cream using 3 eggs to bind it.  In general, 1/3 to 1/2 of the liquid used is cream unless otherwise stated in recipes.  Pure cream and egg masses are generally for thinner quiches.  Beat the eggs with the cream/soft cheese only enough to loosen, never beat them frothy.

Wine:  never a hardy, dry red!  Any egg based dish is difficult to match up with a wine because the egg can  alter the taste perception.  A rule of thumb is to use the wines from the area a dish originates from and this makes sense. Wines from the Alsace/Lorriane regions such as Gewürztraminer or German wines such as Bacchus, or any low acid,  fruity, dry white wine will do.  If you do prefer a red wine then a Spätburgunder with its fruity bouquet is a good choice for those hearty onion and smoked bacon/pork belly versions such as Quiche Lorraine or Quiche Alsacienne. But for a culinary adventure, my suggestion is a good Gewürztraminer.  It is a unique wine worth tracking down.

Quiche, wine and time to enjoy them!  Indulge in a little edible tradition.

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