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How to Ruin the Risotto!

Risotto is not complicated, just a little fussy.  One cannot 're-invent the wheel' or make it low fat, or lower in starch by choosing a normal long grain rice.  (info)

risotto milanese

classic and creamy risotto

Risotto, risotto!  How I do savour a creamy, perfect risotto.  It is quintessence, sensuous not only in exquisite flavour but sensuous by all the perceptions.  Divine.  But definitely a dish that needs, no, demands attention.  And an infusion of love.  Love of good food, of the preparation and a measure of excited anticipation. At last you and your guests sit before it, take in a deep breath, nose poised over the deep plate and the mouth waters.

 

Risotto is not complicated, just a little fussy.  And it is best prepared in its classic formula - the right rice, lots of stock, good amounts of butter and cheese.  Love, time.   One cannot 're-invent the wheel' or make it low fat, or lower in starch by choosing a normal long grain rice.  Do it once, and never again.  It just won't be the same.

 

So how do you ruin a good risotto?

 

.Use water instead of stock.  This is the flavour base of any good risotto.  Without it, it is boring.  There is no such thing as a risotto made with water.  At least not in Italy.

 

.Omit the wine (when required in the recipe).  The wine adds an important note to the flavour base.  A classic Milanese style risotto will be a little lacking without it.

 

.Use any other rice other than the required Arborio or Carnaroli rice.  These rices have a high starch content - and release it slowly during the stirring...and can endure the cooking technique.  Any other rice turns to mush or will not be creamy enough (using paella rice is close but cannot offer the creaminess and still be a little al dente.

 

.Rinse the rice.  Worst thing you can do as most of the starch is rinsed away and it is exactly that, that makes the proper consistency.

 

.Don't stir enough.  It just won't be creamy enough.

 

.Over sauté the rice until it begins to turn a little tan.  Even slightly browning it will inhibit the starch release and the risotto cannot be as creamy as it should.  Sauté in enough butter/oil until it begins to turn transparent.

 

.Think diet and omit the butter.  Butter is good for you.  Margarine is not and risotto doesn't like it anyway.  If the calories bother you, just eat lighter the day before.  Compensate elsewhere, but not with a risotto!!  Risotto is not an everyday dish.  Enjoy it in its best form as the occasional treat.

 

.Add too much stock toward the end and forget to watch for the 'al dente' moment.  The risotto may be creamy, but will be overcooked - almost mushy.  If you want it 'al onda' (makes waves when you jerk the pan) sufficient stock must be added before the the 'al dente' moment has arrived.  The last addition of butter and cheese will give it the creaminess.

 

.Wait too long to serve it.  Have your guests seated once the risotto is 'resting'.  The grand entrance and anticipation is worth it.

 

It's not just 'rice Italian style'.  It's risotto!

 

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  The Epicurean Table   www.epicureantable.com © 2003-2009 

Patricia Conant,  columnist and food writer   

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