Capsicum
(capsicum frutescens - the heat!)
Eng: chilli (Brit.), chili (Am.) Fr: le piment fort Ge: der Chili,
das Peperoni
It: i peperoncini Sp: el chili
(capsicum annum -the sweet!)
Eng: sweet pepper, Fr: le piment doux Ge: die
Paprikaschote, die Paprika
It: il peperone dolce Sp:
el pimiento
|

capsicum,
peppers and aubergine! |
Columbus, in his search for spices in the New World, erroneously
labelled capsicum, 'peppers' because
of their peppery taste. A member of the nightshade family, capsicum
is unrelated to the piper nigrum (black pepper) family. Capsicum
is the generic name for sweet peppers and chillies and covers
hundreds of varieties.
Referred
to as 'sweet peppers' in North America, the familiar bell shape
lends its name to 'bell peppers' which can be green, red, orange,
yellow, deep purple (aubergine colour) and all shades in between.
Peppers of this type have a thicker skin than the familiar long,
thin medium, green sweet pepper favoured by Italians, Turks or
Middle Eastern cooks. Depending upon where you purchase them, they
may be called pepperoni (Italian), Italian peppers or Turkish
peppers. Of these sweet, pepperoni types, there are also hotter
ones. These are usually a paler green, to yellowish, rounder and
sometimes shorter. There are, of course smaller pepperonis that are
very hot and these belong to the chilli (hot pepper) sort.
Thanks
to Columbus' discovery, peppers of all kinds have found their way
into many cuisines from the New World to Spain, Italy and Northern
Africa, to such Asian cuisines such as Szechuan (China), Korean,
Thai and many more. Paprika is made by grinding chillies, the kind
used, of course defines 'hot', or 'sweet'. The best paprika is
undisputedly Hungarian and the finest, 'noble sweet rose' is a
notable difference than paprika from other cultures. Spanish
paprika, 'pimentón' is coarser and can also be either 'sweet' or
'hot' (dulce or pikante). In any case, look for bright red colour.
If it is brown, it is too old.
Where's the fire?
What puts the heat in chilli peppers is a colourless, odourless
alkaloid called capsaicin (kap-SAY-ih-sin) which is
produced by the white membrane attached to the ribs of the pepper.
The seeds are not hot in themselves, but pick up the heat by their
close proximity to the membrane. Capsaicin stimulates the pain
receptors of broken skin or soft tissues such as the mouth, nose
and eye areas and cause these areas to 'water' which spreads the
effect - which is why reaching for a glass of water or other
liquid such as beer or wine is like applying a blowtorch. The best
and quickest relief is a small mouthful of yoghurt or milk held in
the mouth for a few seconds. It is the casein (milk protein) that
neutralizes the effect of the capsaicin. It is not without reason
that raita, a yoghurt based side dish, is often served along with
Indian curries.
The degree of heat in peppers is measured using the Scoville
Scale. Mild peppers such as bell peppers are 0 SHU (Scovill
Heat Units), cayenne at 30,000 to 50,000 and the hellish hananero
at an impressive 100,000 to 300,000 SHU.
But don't confuse hotness with flavour - which is a little like
confusing quantity with quality. The flavour of a pepper is in the
fleshy outer tissue. Colour can be a good indicator, though not
absolutely infallible. As a general rule, the stronger the colour,
the fuller the flavour.
Dishes that are overly hot, as if to dare the diner to try them,
belong in the competitive arena and have little to do with
quality. Dishes that are so hot that the ears smoke and the eyes
bulge are culinary jokes. But it seems this is a means to prove
one's prowess, manliness, toughness or holier-than-thou-ness (or
rather, hotter-than-thou)!
The problem with 'getting used to the heat' is that one can become
addicted in a way, much like there are 'fat-aholics' who feel a
dish 'has no flavour' unless it has been cooked with a lot of oil
(or butter) or fried. Fat/oil is a flavour carrier. Those raised
on too much of it, miss it…and invariably develop health
problems and cannot enjoy less fat or low fat foods. Those who
have acclimated themselves to the heat of capsicum are forever
searching for the fire and reaching for the Tabasco sauce.
Me, I prefer mild to reasonably hot. I define 'reasonable' as not
competing with the other flavours of my food yet definitely
raising my eyebrows and eliciting a 'woo' and a smile! Tasting the
rest of the flavours of the food in front of me is more important
than proving whether or not I can survive the fire test. I don't
want my taste buds in a coma, I want them tingling for what is to
come. Hot balanced with cool or a tease of sour or sweet or other
aromatic spices is intriguing to my taste buds. My favourite hot
cuisines? Indian, Indonesian (very wide choice) and Thai. Yes, I
like some Mexican dishes, but I prefer the rich variety of aromas
of the other mentioned cuisines.
Safety in Handling
Sweet peppers need no special handling, but any cook who has
inadvertently mishandled a dried chili and later rubbed her eye
will tell you that all chilies are to be handled with respect.
Wear gloves when cutting or otherwise handling chillies. Rinse off
the cutting board with a little milk and then soapy water to avoid
transferring the heat. If you do accidentally touch your eyes,
absolutely resist flushing them with water. Instead, reach for the
milk bottle or pat a little yoghurt over the eye. Yes, this is
messy but will offer instant relief. After a minute or so, test
and rinse with water.
Chillies are stimulants and are used in digestive tonics. In hot
climates, chillies are an excellent disinfectant, hence they can
help conserve food. The cayenne pepper is helpful in fever
treatment and aids indigestion.
Sweet Peppers
If chillies are hellishly hot, then sweet peppers are certainly
the heavenly counterpart. Bell peppers, named so because of their
bell shape, are the most commonly known, are the juiciest and most
colourful of the sweet pepper varieties. Colours can range from
green, red, yellow, orange, brown and deep purple as well as
shades in between and variegations. The green bell pepper is juicy
and bitter-sweet. The red bell pepper is a mature green pepper
that has been left on the vine longer and is much sweeter because
of the longer ripening process. Because of their shape, bell
peppers are ideal for stuffing.
Another favourite sweet pepper, large and almost heart shaped is
the pimento, most famous for stuffing olives. These peppers are
easily found tinned or bottled, marinated or not and ready to use
as a garnish or in recipes.
Sweet peppers are an integral ingredient in the famous Cuban and
Puerto Rican 'sofrito' a basis for many delicious dishes. Of
course chopped onion, garlic, sometimes tomato and always good
olive oil comprise the rest of a good sofrito with slight
variations of more or less of an ingredient.
Repeating Problems
Also known as 'burping' is caused by difficulty digesting peppers.
In most cases it is the skin that is the culprit and removing it
prior to use is usually the solution. Another tip is to puree the
'sofrito' or sauce you may be using the peppers in or mincing the
peppers very finely, both methods help the stomach to digest the
offender. It would be a pity to avoid peppers entirely without
first trying the above tricks.
Removing the Skin
Peeling peppers first softens them, makes them better able to
absorb and to release their own flavours more efficiently into a
dish. For small quantities, cut wide, even strips and remove as if
you were removing the skin from a tomato using the knife
method. (Lay the strip skin side down on a cutting board. At
the right edge, make a starting cut between the skin and the meat.
Angle the knife so that the thicker side of the knife is flat with
the board and the blade is parallel to the board. This will create
a thin space between the cutting edge and the board. The thickness
of the knife creates a guide. Using a long, gliding movement cut
towards the left. It is important that the knife handle is not
touching the board, but rather in front of the edge of the board.
A little practice and you will be trimming tomatoes, peppers and
fruit like a professional chef!)
Another method is to use a vegetable peeler, but depending
on the shape of the pepper, this can be tricky.
A delicious way to remove the skin is the roasting method.
Heat the upper grill of the oven to hot and lay the peppers on a
baking sheet in the upper third of the oven. Roast until one side
is black and turn. When they are completely black, they are ready.
Place in a paper or plastic bag and close tightly. Leave for about
15 minutes. When they are cool enough to handle, pull away the
stems, remove the seeds and slip or peel off the skin. It will
come off easily enough, but resist rinsing under water. This will
rinse away much of the delicious flavour. Remember to wear gloves
when handling the chilli type peppers. This is the best method if
you wish to marinate the peppers in a vinaigrette as they are
tender and have a delicious slightly smoky, roasted flavour!
Picking Peppers
Not from the vine, but from the green grocers. Look for peppers
that seem heavy for their size, are glossy, bright and unbruised.
Pass over any that seem dull, show signs of shriveling and seem
otherwise unhappy. Red, yellow and orange varieties are especially
sweet and excellent for raw platters and salads. Peppers are an
excellent source of Vit. C, have a good amount of Vit. A, some
calcium and iron. Reach for pieces of peppers for a healthy snack!
Suggestions:
baked
- These are usually stuffed as are Stuffed Green Peppers (or
red) so common in most culinary cuisines from Turkish to Egyptian,
throughout Europe and of course the Americas. Every country
has its favourite filling, but often rice or a combination
of rice with a meat such as lamb or beef is used.
cooked
- Chopped from fine to coarse is the usual form that peppers
are used and added to other ingredients or dishes.
fried
- Fried peppers, a favourite in Hispanic and Latin
countries. Another favourite is to fry them, then add an
acidic agent such as balsamic vinegar, other vinegar of choice or
lemon, salt and marinating for several hours before serving as an
appetizer. Peeling after frying depends on taste.
grains
- They can be filled with such grains as millet, rice or
bulghur etc. or used as part of a 'sofrito' of onion, chopped
peppers of choice and garlic.
herbs
- Almost all herbs known to the Mediterranean areas dance well
with peppers except perhaps mint, lavender or dill that seem lost
or misplaced.
raw
- Alone or in a salad like tomatoes, this is the healthiest way to eat
them. Very high in vitamins as mentioned above as well as
anti-oxidant properties..
roasted
- Wonderful roasted alone or with other vegetables such as
aubergine, onion, garlic and tomatoes. Green 'Bell Peppers',
because of their thicker skin may need a head start when roasted
with other vegetables. Roast similarly to tomatoes at a high
heat, scraping off the blacked skin when done.
sautéed
- This method usually is for the famous 'sofrito', and is the
starting point for many, many Hispanic, Latin and Caribbean
dishes from Spain to Cuba to Central and South Americas. A
sofrito is composed of green or red peppers or mix thereof, garlic
and onions sautéed in olive oil with tomatoes added optionally
later. Slight variations exist between Cuba and Puerto Rico
where an olive oil infused with achiote, the rust-red seed of the
annatto tree is used for colouring. It is an important
ingredient in the 'Holy Trinity' of Cajun cooking, where onions,
bell peppers and celery form that cuisine's basis. It is
also the foundation of Northern Italian cuisine as well whereas
the 'Holy Trinity' in other areas of Italy, notably Napoli/Roma/Siciliy
identifies with basil, garlic and tomato..
stuffed
- Just as with tomatoes, peppers can be filled with just about anything from lentils to rice and all grains
in between! Usually served hot, stuffed peppers are an
international favourite. Cut off
the cap and remove the seeds and core carefully before
filling. Some recipes require that they are 'poached' in
water (boring) or stock (wonderful) which is how I like to do it
if I am not roasting them. Just place in a deep enough
baking dish or pan so that hot stock can be filled to just under
the filling. Place in a hot oven and bake according to size
and filling. Generalities: A raw meat filling
will take longer than an al dente cooked rice or grain filling
that has some raw or cooked meat, or not, as part of the
filling. Tip: blanch first for a few minutes in
boiling water before cutting off the tops and proceeding with your
recipe. This will shorten cooking time by about 15 minutes.
Baked in this way takes about 30 minutes. Baked using raw
peppers and perhaps tomato sauce or tomato sauce and a light stock
will take at least 45 minutes using the bell pepper variety.
vegetables
- Peppers are compatible with many vegetables typical of the
Mediterranan cuisine, such as aubergine, courgettes, tomatoes,
onions, garlic, potatoes, and are an important ingredient in
Ratatouille - a dish associated with French Provençal cooking,
but originating from the Catalan samfaina, a kind of fried
vegetable dish
See
Recipe Collection for more recipes!
Join
the update list and never miss what's new on the site!

The Epicurean Table www.epicureantable.com © 2006
Patricia
Conant, columnist and food writer
new
ebook! Gourmet
Chocolate Cakes and Co.
- Easy and versatile, sensuous
and succulent, dark dreams of chocolate delights and other delicious
cakes. The HOW TO ebook on basic European style cakes with photos
and an informative guide on how YOU can make them! Click
here for information.
|